True fades include using at least 4–6 different lengths within 1/2″ to an inch of space without being able to see any lines. It takes more time, skill and specialty to be able to do than using scissors within the haircut and blend it with the sides, which is why it costs more.

While the fade has become a staple in modern men's grooming, not all barbers possess the same level of expertise in executing this technique. The ability to achieve a seamless fade depends on various factors, including education, experience, interest, and the tools at a barber's disposal.

For a start, you'll need to tell your barber whether you want a low fade, mid fade or high fade as this dictates where your fade line begins. You'll also have to convey how short or how gradual you want the back and sides to be cut. This will affect what tools the barber will use to get that graduation.